Sitamai

“Early to bed and early to rise is Bergen’s idea of exercise.”

Any attempts to maintain notions of passing time were thwarted by a comparable life of leisure on Sitamai’s Ecofarm.  Depending on the host family, one was either becoming adept at working the rice fields or endeavouring to transcend space and time in the bamboo tree house. I was clearly engaging in the latter, but still managed to clock in a couple hours a day sinking my hands into buffalo shite and setting the stage for the makings of future dal bhats (a Nepalese meal of rice and lentils served twice a day…everyday). 

The three weeks spent in this small village in Chitwan added to a more immersive learning experience and our host and founder of the project, Padum, was full of wisdom about organic farming and the surrounding wildlife.  Although several of his fantastic stories were entertained with a pinch of salt (choking a leopard with an umbrella, jumping onto a rhino from a tree), Padum would deliver on his promises to afford the volunteers narratives of their own.  It’s not every day one gets to hug a baby rhino.  Yeah, hug.  

Sitamai was Narayan brought to life with tropical flora splashed against a backdrop of fields and lush forests wrapped in the warmth of fine company.  Banjo strings, sassy Amas, rocks of rhinos, papaya leaves, dirty fingernails, and the baby next door who peed on my leg comprised some of the more unforgettable moments.  Although my desire for alternative cuisine grew exponentially, I did enjoy the sense of a daily routine in such a tranquil yet often spontaneous environment. 

Now in stunning Pokhara and once again using silverware, a 10 day retreat awaits me.  The requirements are simple: no speaking, writing, reading, listening to music, or making eye contact.  I imagine myself climbing up the walls by day three (at best) as my favourite pastimes now fall into a category of vices.  However, it is a challenge and it is free.  Admittedly I am motivated by both spiritual curiosity and financial interest.  A handful of friends have already completed the session with mixed reviews so the hope is that I either achieve Nirvana or get thrown out in the most glorious manner.  We’ll soon see.

Fitter Happier

It's a fantastic struggle to capture the words that give justice to the depth of connection and sensory indulgence that took place in Jaipur and Delhi.  

My first days were spent with my friend Gaury and her family in East Delhi.  Although we were perfect strangers when I landed in this pulsating monstrosity, I departed feeling like a newly adopted puppy.  Gaury's mother insisted that my mouth be occupied by constantly chewing (I lost weight after I left their house) and her father was a humorous man who clearly doted on his family and thus was slightly concerned by my marital status ("after you get married next year, you'll come back?"), but all was presented to me with such warmth that I could only respond with the same.

I had been bracing myself for the product of over population and poverty, and whilst these elements were unavoidably present, it certainly did not detract from the overall experience that is Delhi.  Houses adorned with garishly brilliant strings of lights, the city danced and exploded during the balmy evenings leading up to Diwali.  The doorways were carefully decorated with a combination of marigold petals and oil lamps.  To accompany the brilliance of glamour and color, Gaury and I adorned ourselves in decadent garments before participating in the ritual puja to ask for blessings of fortune and wealth.

Days later I was trying to navigate the chaotic maze of the Delhi bus station.  Instead of signs and helpful employees, I found myself attempting to locate my bus to Jaipur by following the sporadic shouts of the drivers in between the heckling of men selling cakes and other sweets for the journey. This was at least of more assistance than the men who chose to ignore me point blank while I (politely) tried to get my bearings straight.

The 6 hour ride through Rajasthan was breath-taking.  Rich garments, camels, and rolling hills filled the scenery in between busy towns that one could pray have seen better days.  On arrival to Jaipur I had to do my best to wear an expression that looked both disinterested and knowing as a hoard of rickshaw drivers tried to persuade me of their sincerity and their services.  Moments later I find myself fortuitously in genuine company who want nothing but to make my introduction to Jaipur one that I will never forget.  The days were spent riding on  motorbikes through a whirlwind of the city blare and the rich outskirts.  Monkeys took snacks from my fingers and I left on a cloud of bliss that could only be enjoyed in newly acquired serenity.  On my return to India, revisiting Jaipur is on the top of my agenda.















I currently find myself in Kathmandu, Nepal.  The main reason of this new residency is to apply for a new Indian visa which I am able to submit after 30 days.  In the meantime I aim to take on a couple volunteering tasks at an orphanage and then a eco-farm a couple weeks later.  However, like everything about this visit, all is fluid, so I am not closed whatever else decides to crop up during this time.  Unfortunately, with this mornings eggs being the number one suspect, too much has been cropping up for me today.  Hopefully I will be able to further indulge in this city's offerings by sunset.