Nepal (reprise)

sunsest from the peace pagoda

Nepal in it's entirety blindsided me in slow motion.  Finding myself again in Kathmandu I had almost chalked up the last few months as coming full circle, hanging off the same concrete terrace where I originally threw a tantrum (well, an hour long whinge married with severe pouting) about my perceived shackles of constraint following the expiration of my first Indian visa. However, this time around I had the wealth of my Nepalese experience under my belt in addition to the immense pleasure of crossing paths with friends old and new.

An oar in hand, motorbike rides to the ends of the earth, vertical extensions, fresh faces sparkling with the vigour of freedom, and an all too comfortable feeling of ease defined the weeks beyond my 10 days of self imposed silence.  My comparatively lazy days in the town of Pokhara came to a striking end in the warm company of the reluctant sages of Phewa Lake's mountains.  As the flames of their bonfire licked the soles of my well worn shoes I found myself under the wing of a heavily bearded South American cum wild Nepali.  While his European partner boisterously owned an acoustic rendition of "La Javanaise", I found myself receiving instruction and advice of the highest order in a conversation that only required a nod and grateful acceptance of a talisman formed from the heart of Pokhara.  Magic easily accessed in the understated beauty of nature's finest.

Enter Londonites, S&K, the familiar faces from a lifetime shelved half a year ago.  Several times we remarked how surreal it was that we were sharing our time in the company of dal bhat and prayer flags.  We spent our first night together in the anti-climactic setting of the Pokhara street festival and ushered in the new year as well as S's birthday in Kathmandu (there was no countdown, but a count up and the ball dropped at the count of 12. 12???)

My last meeting with S took place the weekend prior to my departure amidst the human traffic of Embankment in the revered gardens of Gordan's Wine Bar.  However, instead of engaging in social commentary over fine wine, I was now squealing over the "free" toilet paper in the bathroom and an opportunity to crash in one of the most luxurious hotel room floors since the start of my travels (think poor man's Holiday Inn).  In the midst of those who vacation, I was struck by how feral I felt in comparison; my daily budget and financial mindset now firmly formed of rupees as opposed to the pound or dollar.  On that note, I even had a friend make the generous offer to spot me an extra £20 a week upon learning that I shared a room with another traveller to save myself an extra 250 rupees (the equivalent of 3 dollars) a day.  Although I will never look a gift horse in the mouth, I had to graciously decline.  It's not that I cannot afford the cost, but those 3 bucks go a long way... although having said that, I don't think I have ever been so ornery about another person's bodily outcries.  Lesson learned.

a session conducted in a derelict school

Following S & K's departure, I happened upon a group of individuals who very quickly welcomed me into their sphere.  Headed by a Lama, this was a group of reiki practioners who were offering a holistic service to the locals living mountainside, an hour outside of Kathmandu.  I was invited to accompany them and observe their practice over a week.  The purpose of this "camp" was to raise money on a donation basis for what they hope to establish as Nepal's first healing hospital.  The costs required to build the hospital are estimated to be approximately $12,000 which in Western terms is a small sum to pay when dealing with real estate.  However, where the rupee is concerned, not a dent will be made if merely counting on the donations of the even the more affluent Nepali residents.  The contributions of foreigners are somewhat advantageous (if not necessary) in this instance, but my experience is that there is always tension when applying a cost to what I view as a service born from altruism.  Whatever ones thoughts are on Reiki, I will only say at this time that the outcomes spoke for themselves.  The satisfaction of the recipients varied in demonstration from a glowing smile to a man breaking out in dance and fist pumping the sky.  Several spoke of their now absent symptoms and pains following their treatment. The time spent here passed swiftly and my final days found me playing the role of the pied piper as the number of children surrounding me multiplied and filled me with a healthy level of exhaustion (I can't remember the last time I played tag).  When parting ways, I was sent off with a slew of embraces and promises to cross paths again at points unknown.  The perfect ending to my first visit to Nepal.

Rosen and Bibek (top left) were the leaders of the pack and brilliant company

on the way up

On the heels of my first visit to India, it took me a little minute to fully appreciate Nepal in it's own right. Initially, Nepal presents many images that mirror those of India.  The corner shop crowded by cheap sweets and single cigarettes, the widespread poverty, roadsides littered with an assortment of rubbish (from candy wrappers to "waste"), and the strong smells of burning plastic.  But at heart, Nepal is nothing like India.  The scenery is breathtaking, the weather generally milder, and interactions with people of sincerity are much more accessible. Nepal doesn't suffer from the same degree of pollution or burdens of over population and there is a sense that life is experienced at a slower and more relaxed pace.  I can understand why people coming from Delhi liken Kathmandu as an oasis.  I do not take for granted how fortunate I have been to have encountered gems of individuals in India who have contributed in forming a more positive experience for me.  Despite taking much delight in this moment, I am excited to return to "mother India", her arms ready with the paradox of beauty and chaos.  My newly issued visa in hand, I start my journey tonight to  Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha, and will hopefully be crossing the border towards Varanasi in mere days. Triumph.